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I'm an architectural photographer. I travel around Britain interacting with special places. I work from my camper van called Woody and I share my experiences via this digest.

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Some subscribers have reported problems receiving last week's Digest because of the Microsoft Outage - so, in case you missed it (👌 and beautiful Durham) here it is:

Andy Marshall’s Genius Loci Digest: 26 July 2024
I know it all sounds a little odd, and men don’t usually talk about these things, but I feel that what happened to me during that time was miraculous, and miraculous things should be shouted from the rooftops.

💪 MEMBER POWERED PHOTOGRAPHY

For those that are new to the Digest, I introduced Member Powered Photography (MPP) with the aim of making something meaningful from the wonderful generosity and support of Genius Loci Digest paying members.

MPP is also a way for me, personally, to give something back to places and communities as an acknowledgement to their value and importance in my life.

Out of difficult times, the memberships have helped sustain me as a creative and in turn I hope that I can help sustain others (in a very small way) through giving them professional photographs and acknowledgement through this Digest.

Each and every MPP has been eye-opening and rewarding and the most recent project photographing Adam in Ruthin was no exception.

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PHOTO-HOARD

Photographing the library at Stowe House in Buckinghamshire.


WORDS

“Books are a uniquely portable magic.”
Stephen King


OBSERVATIONS

You know how it is when you lose yourself within a book and completely forget your surroundings? This time, I’m a little embarrassed because I’ve just met my host, Adam, and he’s showing me a book in his bindery workshop in Ruthin, Wales. For what seems like several minutes, I’m mesmerised by a book that records the routes of roads from principal locations in Britain. This is the Google Maps of the 17th century, but it transcends that comparison.

This exquisite volume is born from lived experience, charted from a singular perspective. The roads within it have been trudged at walking or trotting pace, capturing the unique, linear idiosyncrasies of England and Wales. It is truly a work of art, a feast for the eyes.

As I trace one of the routes in the book, I realise I am also delving into a stratum of time, unveiled by the place names—each a piece of archaeological evidence, revealing the peculiarities of the people of the past. Names like Wormles Tump and Gallows House are more than mere labels; they are fragile hooks that tether us to the past. This book might be the last recorded memory of Wormles Tump and someday in the future, those two words might unlock a puzzle, a memory, a family history, or might even inspire a novel.

I’m reminded of some words by Chris Riddell, which touch upon the singular importance of keeping and conserving our books:


‘Books are the way that the dead communicate with us. The way that we learn lessons from those that are no longer with us, the way that humanity has built on itself, progressed, made knowledge incremental rather than something that has to be learned over and over.’

Adam is more than a bookbinder; he is a Time Lord, a guardian of this precious conduit to history, enshrining fragile hooks to the past with a love and dedication that has taken him over 14 years to hone.

It hasn’t been easy. Adam spent many happy years in this bindery working for owner Paul Delrue, a Master Binder. Paul was renowned for his expertise and innovative cover designs. His design bindings can be found all over the world and in the libraries of members of the Royal Family. He also made design bindings for the shortlisted members of the Booker Prize.

Sadly, Paul died in January of this year, which means that Adam’s future is as fragile as the books he takes care of. Adam has taken on the business and all of the tools of the trade, but he needs a new place to continue his work.

When I ask Adam if he is now a Master Binder, he says that it is not for him to say. But later, when I come across his exquisite design bindings, I realise that I’m talking to a Master.

One of Adams Design Bindings on Pembrokeshire

I photograph Adam and his process for a couple of hours and it’s one of the most satisfying projects I've been involved with.

Whilst looking through my lens, I notice that the walls are layered up in hundreds of photographs, cards, and notes.

"Are these your photographs and artefacts on the wall?" I ask.

"No, they’re Paul Delrue’s," Adam replies.

Most have been there for over a decade. This is a layering up of a life within a room. Adam is working, quite literally, within the mind of another person.

When I start to photograph Adam placing some gold foil on the spine of a book, I can’t help but feel that Adam’s guiding light, the man that is saturated throughout these walls, is ready to let him go.

Adam is beyond a fledgling—this is his time to fly.


Postscript: Great news! Adam has now found another place in Ruthin for his business. Adam's website is here:

Delrue Bookbinders
A leading name in the realm of traditional hand bookbinding, offering book repairs, bespoke bindings and more.

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HOTSPOTS

Ruthin, Denbighshire, Wales.

I shall call Ruthin the Lavenham of Wales for it delights in its timber framed buildings both medieval and Victorian.

Key Buildings.

Nantclwyd y Dre

Dating back to the early C15th this is one of the oldest town houses in Wales. The heart of the building was started in 1435 and it holds a gentle presence on the street with its delightful porch extending out on two legs. I was so taken with the building I took some photographs to build up a visual photo essay for subscribers. The hall house is open to the public.

Nantclwyd y Dre Photo Essay


The Seven Eyes

Oh what a joy it is to come across the seven eyes roofscape as you enter St. Peter's Square. It reminds me of a nest of birds peeping out from a tree. The building was originally owned by the Myddleton Family of Chirk Castle and was re-modelled as we see it today in the Dutch style by Sir Richard Clough in the C18th.

St. Peter's Church

It was the same Myddleton family that commissioned the beautifully crafted wrought iron entrance into the churchyard of St. Peter's.

The spire of St. Peter's can be seen from all over Ruthin.

The church yard is archaeological.

Behind the church is a building that was founded in the C16th as a hospital by Gabriel Goodman who was from Ruthin and became Dean of Westminster. The building wears its story on its facade.

The interior ceiling is wondrous. Thought to have been re-used and brought in from Basingwerk Abbey at its dissolution in 1536.

The buildings of Ruthin (Pure Scroll No Words)

Theres a lovely mix of buildings in Ruthin including medieval and Georgian. There are a number of buildings with the extended porch which seemed to be in fashion in the late C17th and early C18th. They make real sense - providing extra space with a porch included. Many of the buildings are rendered which is a Welsh vernacular tradition.

Looks like this extended porch has been infilled at the bottom.


VAN LIFE

I'm loving my van air fryer! Here, I cooked up some fish and chips - cod loin, flour eggs and a coating of crushed crisps. Delicious.


Van Life Gallery
My van, Woody, is my time-travelling machine, taking me to some remarkable places that have altered my mind like wine through water.

ON MY COFFEE TABLE

BOOKMARKED
‘If there’s nowhere else to go, this is where they come’: how Britain’s libraries provide much more than books
The long read: In 2024, libraries are unofficial creches, homeless shelters, language schools and asylum support providers – filling the gaps left by a state that has reneged on its responsibilities
Felled Sycamore Gap tree may live on after green shoots appear on stump
‘Astonishing’ signs of regrowth discovered on world-famous tree, whose destruction led to outpouring of grief

FILM AND SOUND

What I'm listening to in the van:

BBC Sounds - Rory Stewart: The Long History of... - Available Episodes
Listen to the latest episodes of Rory Stewart: The Long History of... on BBC Sounds

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video - Andy Marshall’s Genius Loci Digest
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In essence I’m offering my professional services for free to historic locations in Britain.

Recent Digest Sponsors:

Digest Membership Sponsor: Leisuredrive Campervans Ltd.
Established in 1969, we are the UK’s longest standing independent campervan company.

AND FINALLY

My favourite bookshops

It just so happens that my favourite bookshops are also architectural gems in their own right. Here they are:

The Grove Bookshop in Ilkley, Yorkshire. 

Only people that spend a considerable amount get a textile bag with this bookshop. Whenever I visit I always walk out with one, burgeoning with books - trying to think of an excuse to justify the outlay. 

Grove Bookshop - North of England Bookshop
Welcome to the Grove Bookshop, one of the north of England’s best-known independent bookshops. Situated in Ilkley, the gateway to the Yorkshire Dales.

My favourite second hand bookshops 

The Old Wheatsheaf Inn - Cornell Books.

If you like your vernacular then this is heavenly. I get all of a dither inside here - should I check out the bressumer or look for rare Edwin Smith books? Timber framed delight with medieval core and mid C17th facade. And, oh, what a door!

Cornell Books Limited
LibraryThing Local: Cornell Books Limited in Tewkesbury, Glos.

Barter Books, Alnwick, Northumberland.

Located in the old train station with roaring fires in the winter, and plenty of seating for rambling through books - you could spend all day here. Forget the castle. There's a cafe too. 

Barter Books
Barter Books

My favourite library

The Chained Library, Hereford Cathedral, Herefordshire.

Just a few metres away from the Mappa Mundi the chained library houses a host of medieval books and manuscripts including the C8th Hereford Gospels. It is a remarkable experience. No lending, no buying - just gawping. 

Chained Library
The Chained Library at Hereford Cathedral is a unique and fascinating treasure in Britain’s rich heritage of library history; there were books at Hereford Cathedral long before there was a ‘library’ in the modern sense. For information on visiting the Mappa Mundi & Chained Libr…


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Thank You!

Photographs and words by Andy Marshall (unless otherwise stated). Most photographs are taken with Iphone 14 Pro and DJI Mini 3 Pro.